Mine has an open backside and needs to reside in a baffle to prevent an acoustic shortcut.ī. your speaker has a closed backside and works without a baffle. Just shrink the dimensions and omit the loading dockįaraway Wrote:Hi Koos, that's a nice video explaining all the steps. Vernon contemporary industry "shoe box" buildings are the perfect training to build baffles. the baffle needs to be removed again and the small holes in the corners and the speaker need to be closed to trap the sound in the baffle. Two sample photos taken at a test run after step 4. Sound became "apartment friendly" after CV128 was set to 20 I selected speedtabel CV25=11 and reduced speed down to 32 in CV66 and 95 (set bit 4 in CV 29!). The Tsunami did work with the Athearn drive out of the box fine. put the shell back and you are done with the hardware :-) solder the lamp wires in place ( same location at with Athearn)Ħ. mount the baffle with tape to the chassis and solder the speaker wiresĥ. I preferred the easy way und built the box around the speaker laying on a glass plane)Ĥ. (Soundtraxx provides construction drawings with correct size to build the baffle. Do not forget to solder two wires to the speaker and have a small opening for the wires. put the speaker 810113 with the front down and build a styrene box about. reconnect all four power wires and the motor wires (same locations as with Athearn)ģ. Install Tsunami with the capacitors down.Ģ. swap the Athearn PCB with the Tsunami decoder TSU-GN1000 828058 EMD 645 (Non turbo). The upgrade from the DC version is very easyġ. May be you are interesting my report how I installed my first Tsunami sound decoder into an Atheran H0 Genesis GP15-1.
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